Overview
From endless beaches to jungle shalas, Nicaragua is where mornings start early with the howl of a monkey and evenings end with a salty breeze, watching mind-blowing sunsets. Known as the land of volcanoes and lakes, it’s the surf that stole our hearts. The offshore winds dawn in by Lake Nicaragua are a surfing cheat code.
Our Connection
We discovered Nicaragua five years ago, and since then, we’ve holidayed, lived, and worked here. We first chose it as a Christmas surf escape; Josh liked the flag, we were curious about its under-travelled reputation, and wanted somewhere raw and real.
Since then, we’ve returned numerous times, eventually calling the sandy shores of Playa Maderas home for nearly two years. It’s where Radiant Waves was born, and where we held our very first retreat. So yeah, I guess you could say our connection is strong.
Quick Travel Facts
Currency: Nicaraguan Córdoba (USD widely accepted)
Language: Spanish
Tourist Visa: 90 days on arrival for most passports
Transport Tip: Use Waze over Google Maps
Essential to Pack: Board shorts, ocean-friendly suncream, patience
Things to be mindful of
Part of Nicaragua’s magic is its simplicity. But be ready for basic comforts, hot water and AC aren’t standard. It’s not a luxury destination and can be rough around the edges. That said, for travellers who appreciate authenticity, it’s pure gold.
Top Places to Visit
San Juan del Sur: A laid-back surf town, which is great for a party and some retail therapy. We would recommend staying 20 minutes up the coast in Playa Maderas and then taking the shuttle to town when needed.
Playa Maderas: Beautiful beach with a jungle backdrop, great community vibes and some epic playful waves - a soul recharge is guaranteed. Where we called home.
Popoyo: Surf heaven with lazy hammocks and unreal sunsets. The scenery and vibes feel different to Maderas, so it's fun to see them both.
Granada: Colourful colonial streets and lake breezes. We recommend taking a walking tour to explore the city.
Ometepe: The boat ride over to the island is rather impressive. We weren't sold on the hippie charm, but it’s a bucket-list stop for many, and we did have a good laugh motorbiking around the island
León (we haven’t visited yet, adding here as it is a well-travelled spot): Buzzing, hot, cultural and full of history, if cities are your thing, it is apparently an interesting contrast to Granada.
Want to see how we’d spend a week here? Check out our
[7-Day Nicaragua Itinerary].
What We Love
Stay
Buena Vista Surf Club (Playa Maderas)
Ocean-view eco-lodge tucked up the hill in the jungle: the perfect place to wake up to the sound of waves and monkeys. An impressive yoga deck and a beautiful charm with the cabanas made out of local wood. Our old home.
Hide & Seek (Popoyo)
Boutique surf retreat with a design-led feel. Hide & Seek is more on the high-end scale, but it's good to treat yourself every now and then.
Tribal Hotel (Granada)
A beautifully restored colonial escape with modern minimalism and the kind of pool you never want to leave. A sanctuary in the city that you won't regret.
Eat & Drink
Ding Repair (San Juan del Sur)
A surfer’s favourite, thoughtful design and delicious healthy food: fresh salads, smoothie bowls, and great coffee. What more do you want?
Juanita’s Kitchen (Playa Maderas)
Our go-to date night spot and favourite spot in Nica, this locally run spot is a must, whether you want a chilled day at the beach or a cute supper: the curry and cocktails were our usual.
Machete (Playa Maderas)
A good spot to work from for our digital nomads. Machete was towards the more boogie end of the spectrum. Yummy food and where we would go for a special treat. On Friday nights, we used to take our hotel guests to their Pizza night, which has live music and a great community vibe.
Taverna 99 (Popoyo)
Modern beachfront restaurant, a twist of local flavours and Mediterranean influences. This is where we took our family for a special dinner out when in Popoyo.
NM Culinary (Granada)
If you're a foody, this one's for you, NM is a high-end local cuisine restaurant with a top-class experience from start to finish. The price reflects this, but it's well worth a go if in Granada. It has been labelled one of the best restaurants in Central America.
Garden Café (Granada)
Sun-dappled courtyard, locally roasted coffee, and breakfasts worth lingering over. Take a book and enjoy a cool courtyard breeze over brunch.
Move
Magnific Rock (Popoyo)
A cliffside yoga shala with panoramic Pacific views.
Buena Vista Surf Club (Playa Maderas)
A yoga deck suspended in the trees, looking out to sea. Don’t be surprised if you see a monkey or two swinging through the trees during class. This was where Radiant Waves was born.
Shop
Osci Surf Apparel (San Juan del Sur)
Get yourself a “Stay Loco” T-shirt from Osci, featuring iconic, cheeky designs in great pastel colours. We both still have our original Ts from our first visit 5 years ago. Osci is also a great character, so say hi if you see him in there.
Palms Pines (Popoyo)
A jewellery brand with pop-ups in various shops in Popoyo, as well as Osci’s in San Juan. I got Soph a pair of starfish earrings from here, and her smile was beaming from ear to ear. Why not pick yourself up a special piece or two?
Play
Surf, Surf, Surf (Playa Maderas, Popoyo or elsewhere along the emerald coast)
Warm waves, sandy breaks, and space to play, Nicaragua’s surf is its heartbeat.
Salt Nica Catamaran (San Juan del Sur)
Full-day sail along the Pacific, music, sun, and sea all day long. We did this for our retreat group, and it was a magical day out.
Fishing Tour (San Juan del Sur)
Early-morning adventure with the Captain Alfred crew: simple, salty, and satisfying. Each of the three times I’ve been out weve caught completely different fish, my prize being a huge Jack Fish.
Danny’s Tours (Granada)
Explore the colonial streets with a local guide; expect chocolate and cigar tastings en route. Great way to combine your hot girl steps with an educational experience.
Treehouse Party (Granada)
Friday nights in the jungle canopy: wild, sweaty, and one of those “only in Nica” experiences. Its abit of a adventure finding it half way up the volcano, either go in the communal transfer or taxi it. If you’re an all night raver, stay until the sunrise for a magical experience.
“Dusty lanes, untouched beaches, and a spirit of simplicity.”
— Radiant Waves Retreats
When To Visit
Dry Season (Nov–May):
Great weather, smaller waves, lively towns. To note, by March, it’s dry and dusty, so go Dec–Feb if you're looking for lush greenery.
Rainy Season (May–Nov):
When it rains, it really rains, but it’s raw, wild and much more empty. Surfers love it; however, be warned, it can be attritional and travel can become much more complex.
August: Often a “mini summer” with epic swell.
October: Avoid, too wet and miserable and a lot of places shut.
DIGITAL NOMAD RATING: LOW
It’s doable but tricky. Expect power cuts, patchy Wi-Fi and few air-conditioned cafés. Productivity can feel… tropical. We found it hard at times to be motivated as nothing happens at a great pace.
Getting Around
Car rental is the smoothest option, but in rainy season a 4x4 is a must, rivers and dirt roads are the norm. Use Waze over Google Maps to avoid sketchy routes. Car rentals can be oddly pricey in Nica, so if you can find a trusted local operator, it might save you cash.
Other options:
Shuttles: Caribe Shuttle is our go-to, safe, easy and competitive pricing.
Private taxis: Affordable for short distances in the south.
Colectivo taxis: Shared rides that feel random but save you money.
Local buses: Cheap but slow and sweaty: fun for stories, less fun if on a tight timescale.
Getting There
Managua is the main airport: small and chaotic but doable. From the UK, you’ll usually connect via the US or Mexico. Bring $20 in cash for entry and exit taxes.
Alternatively, fly into Costa Rica (Liberia or San José) and cross the border by land. Liberia is just an hour from the border.
Good to know: You can’t bring drones or binoculars into Nicaragua: customs will confiscate them.
Josh’s Favourite
“Sunset surfs on Maderas, with golden-pink skies and just a few friends in the lineup. Finished, with a dangerously refreshing Michelada on the beach.”
Soph’s Favourite
“Breathtaking sunsets on Maderas, turning the whole sky pink and orange (my favourite colours) & Surfing at Hermosa no elbows needed you can have a peak all to yourself!”
Summary
We’d go back in a heartbeat. Nicaragua rewards adventure, curiosity and patience: it’s wild, raw, and not for the fussy. But for those who want a trip to remember, it's affordable and unforgettable. Surfing is a big part of its identity; if you're not that bothered by the waves, you may be better off checking out Costa Rica.
Join us on our next adventure
If Nicaragua has sparked something in you, come join us just over the border at our Costa Rica Retreat (February 2027) - where the surf, sunsets, and soulful energy continue.
Explore all our upcoming retreats & dates here!
